Alessandro, excellent review as always and it covers just about all the points that I was thinking about. The 3 customisable modes is like nectar to me as they will be so handy

Is there now an automatic Panorama function? I guess not.

Thanks for the [p]review.
The two SD slots are not the same [due to memory capacities] and as far as I understood you can make a choice whether or not to make a direct copy from one to the other.
Still not possible to load the camera battery via usb.
C1-C3 very nice, like the C1-C4 on the Pen F

What about low light and long exposure shooting.

The camera has many compromises now:

SIDE ARTICULATING SCREEN
Like the side articulating screen is now making it impossible to quickly drop camera to waist level and tilt screen upwards while doing so, get the shot and then just raise camera back to on eye while tilting it back to rear.
Every angle where the camera is now required to have a screen tilted upwards becomes far more challenging because the screen is always on the way of the left hand for correct camera handling position, requiring now to actually kneel on the ground to get hand correctly under the camera. And if you try to put hand over or around the screen to lens, you don’t have correct grip and stance that causes shaking and handling for correct panning and view, you actually block the screen with your arm.
And everytime the screen is flipped out, it is huge leverage point and the hinge can very easily break from moderate impact hitting to screen.
And they even were required to move MENU button to top of PLAYBACK button, making it more difficult to press when wanted to get to menu (rarely needed but still) and can be mistaken in the dark. The PLAYBACK button place was nice, as you could (not unintentionally) press the button with palm and get playback without moving fingers while looking through EVF. This makes huge difference now as both buttons are on same area (under palm) and you can’t anymore firmly squeeze palm to body to get playback.

MIC/HEADPHONE JACKS
And then comes the typical compromises that video users always say, but never realise why they are bad. Now the screen is required to be flipped out everytime you want to use it. And you have the microphone and headphone jacks directly behind the screen, making it impossible to use screen or those cables. This ain’t problem for professionals or people serious about video, as they are anyways using external video recorder so they get the 4:2:2 10bit video from HDMI port and they use external 7″ screen to be able see clearly what they are recording and especially if any log/flat profiling is in use, the recorder will correct it for final look.

People who are serious about audio, will use external recorder and not integrated ones (no matter even when has best Olympus integrated microphones in it on the market) and those external recorders has the headphone jacks for observation for those who can’t read the audio levels and adjust the clipping protectors correctly.
And there is no reason to put audio to video file itself from the external recorder as having a 24bit 96Khz BWF that allows easily just to drop WAV (uncompressed) to Olympus videos and get automatically synced as both have correct running timecodes in them. And serious about audio and video will want a 2ch or 4ch 360 degree recording capabilities. Just impossible with the in-camera. And the in-camera audio (as stated, Olympus has the best ones) can always be used for syncing with even older external recorders that don’t have timecodes and you always have this way duplicates of audio sources, one from camera and one from directly from interviewed, spot or surround.

So why to even put those Mic- and Headphone jacks in to the body when people serious about audio and video will not use them? Because wannabe and ultra-low budget people think they really need those!

SCREEN PROTECTION
And then the screen protection, never got multiple OM-D bodies (multiple E-M1 in gear catalog) to suffer from scratches on LCD that would be visible if not really searching from them. So if wanted to improve already hardened screen, just add there 2.5D glass on it and call the day. There is no need to flip LCD around as the damage that would break the current LCD, will come through the LCD rear panel as well or damage the whole unit anyways.
The side articulating screen is as well just bad. As would have been faster to put NFC in camera to quickly pair camera and phone so in 1-2 seconds the phone could show the live view and allow to get the shot in any angle. Now think about it. You are anyways using a light small lens when doing such awkward angles with one handed. And you would not need to kneel or anything as phone in your palm is your screen.
And this works amazingly well in YouTube vlogging or such where you have camera with 45-150mm (for perspective) on tripod filming you, and you are trying to see something from that 3″ display at side of the camera? How about having the smartphone in front of you (or on your lap) or even 10″ tablet, and you use that for starting recording, stopping, adjust exposure etc. And one of the annoying things in the videos is that when person chimps to the right side of the camera of the screen, instead purely focus to the lens with straight eye contact. THis is why side articulating screens should always be closed so you don’t do that, it is even more pleasing to look above or under the camera slightly than to side.

So those who are serious about video or audio, will use external recorders, external displays and they even use external camera jigs that will allow them handle camera easier and there the screen is then set to above jig instead trying to look from side.

2X2 LEVELER
Then comes the other compromise like the 2×2 leveler is now on other side, further from the rear dial. The one great speciality in E-M1 was to able quickly without moving thumb so much to switch front and rear dials from SS and A, to WB and ISO, and then quickly back. Now you need to move the thumb over the AEL/AF button to do so, slowing down in time critical moments. And serious people about photography don’t use S or A modes but M modes, as the EVF will show the exposure and you can faster and easier control the exposure (or brightness) while in fast action by dialing the value you want to use for it (SS, A or ISO). And when shooting C-AF, it is simply better to use a L-Fn button to “Stop C-AF” or put example front Fn button to “MF/AF” where you can easily switch between those two. And people who are so custom to “Focus and recompose”, should simply learn to do it correctly. Either use a face detection for models, use a tracking mode or simply press a Fn button and use rear / front dial to move AF point up/down or left/right. It is faster than any joystick or touchpad AF or so because you don’t need to loosen grip or move thumb to do so. It works great in fast action like sports. And you can do that without even looking at the camera! When you learn that the AF point grid (in E-M1) is 9×9 and from center you have 4 positions to go to any direction, you can at any time press one Fn button to move AF point to middle (it swaps between center and your own chosen position) and then press second Fn to move AF point to area where you want it, without looking camera or remembering where it was last used (if you remember where it was, then you don’t need to reset it to center). This is excellent thing in street photography where you walk camera in your hand, you see a moment and composition and you just press Fn button while you raise camera, move the AF to location you want it to be on screen and when you see through EVF, it is there already and you just need to focus and shoot. This makes using a narrower field of view lenses very easy and fast (street photography is often better to be done with 45-150mm focal lengths as you can get special moments that you don’t get with 12-17mm).

LUG, REC BUTTON AND DUAL CARD SLOTS
The new right side strap lug position, it is just bad. It was a compromise because people wanted the dual card slots and there was no space for it if the lug was on right side. Well, now it is on the camera, between Fn1 and REC button and this is bad for video users who want quick moments or “gun and run”. Because the best handling for video was where you moved thumb over the body so it can press REC button, and move index finger (and rest) on the grip, under the shutter button.
Very slight grip tilting but it makes camera more firmly holded and stabilize the camera even more, and you can start and stop recording with thumb. Now the strap lug is between this and you can’t do it comfortably (without strap) or easily at all (with the strap).

The dual card slots are interesting that many forgets how they operate. Slot 1 is UHS-II rated. Slot 2 is UHS-I rated. There is big speed difference. And these card slots works in sync. Each frame is written simultaneously to both cards and the writing speed is dependent from the slower card, in this case the UHS-I card in slot 2. If you don’t want to get “backups” (real backups happens by rotating multiple cards in the camera, not by having dual slots) then you anyways need to use slot 1 to get the UHS-II speed. And you want to use Slot 1 only for everything as you then can do the 4K, you can do fast short bursts without filling the buffer etc.
Benefits comes with these dual slots, like now we likely (assumption) can use camera HDR or Focus Stacking with just raw, so the raw files are written to Slot 1, while final JPEG is written to Slot 2. This way we can pull Slot 1 card out, enable WiFi and copy easily the final files from Slot 2 card to smartphone for sharing online.

What Olympus should have done (IMHO)?

1) Get Fuji X-T2 screen. They can still do it if they are under development (and not under production).
2) Get both card slots to UHS-II speed (even better, jump already to XQD slot! One for SD and one for XQD!)
3) Keep the AEL/AFL button from E-M1 but add one Fn button more to front (so there would be three instead two).
4) Get a Gorilla glass on the LCD protection (for those who are so worried about everything)
5) Add NFC and Bluetooth 5.0 for quick pairing, image transfer etc.
6) Add GPS and Compass for (wildlife, sports, action, street) photographers who use camera mobility (size and weight) and just needs that geolocation. Even the cheap TG4 has it, but not their flagship for wildlife photograph? (You want to know where you saw some fauna, where the specific flora growed etc) Without having smartphone all the time On.
7) Increase the EVF size just by little bit to be 0.8-0.82x